· Change Thief Ancient and modern forces wash round the foreigner-island in farthest Kathmandu · Annapurna I: Broken Valley Let us wander, from the low hills to the high places · Annapurna II: Cold Rising Above the treeline, cold truths emerge · Annapurna III: Choking Point Bitter air we cannot breathe, frozen water we cannot drink · Annapurna IV: Dust River We race down the valley, the wind blowing grit in our teeth · Who is the Monkey? Spiritual refugees and the importance of buns in Nepal